Past Newsletters

Vol. 11 No. 8

Great Divide Brewing Company

Because we have been showcasing fine domestic microbrews for nearly 12 years now, we’ve developed a list of favorite breweries that get featured more than once every few years. The Great Divide Brewing Company is one of these breweries. Founded in 1994, they are located in the heart of downtown Denver, Colorado. The story behind their inception is similar to many heroes of the microbrew revolution in the states—talented homebrewer is discouraged with their job search after earning their degree and decides to turn their passion for brewing into a full time, (hopefully) paying job. Not only is founder Brian Dunn getting paid these days, he and wife Tara, along with about ten full time employees are doing quite well. Year to date, through November 2004, Great Divide has seen over 20% growth!

A success story we’re happy to report, much is due to Brian’s keen business acumen, which was put to use in the early 1990s when he recognized a niche that could be filled in the Denver beer market. At the time, there were four brewpubs in Denver, but no microbreweries. Brian determined that opening Denver’s first microbrewery could be the perfect way to turn his homebrews into craft-brewed reality. After an enterprising start up effort, Great Divide Brewing Company was officially up and running on May 30th, 1994.

In the more than ten years since their opening, they have been market and critical darlings, winning seven medals at the Great American Beer Festival and four medals at the World Beer Cup. Recently, they launched a full-scale rebranding project, building on the strong reception for their more assertive, fuller-bodied brews. This all-encompassing project includes both a marked change in Great Divide’s beer line-up and the redesign of the brewery’s entire line of packaging and marketing materials.

Since introducing big-bodied brews such as Titan IPA (with big hop content at 65 IBUs), Yeti Imperial Stout (75 IBUs) and Hercules Double IPA (an astonishing 85 IBUs!), Great Divide has been hit with a cult-like fervor for these massive ales. As Brian Dunn puts it himself, “A little over a year ago, we decided to get back to our roots—to go back to the reasons we opened Great Divide ten years ago. We got into this business to brew the best beers—especially the styles that we as brewers want to drink. Over the years, we focused on running a business, and tried to tailor our offerings to what we thought most consumers wanted to drink. What I have realized over the past couple years is that a lot more people are clamoring for the complex, hoppy, assertive beers that all of us at the brewery love. We decided to take a chance and go for what makes our jobs so cool—having the opportunity to brew great beers.”

And while there was absolutely nothing that needed fixing at Great Divide, we welcome the change that their renaissance brings because it means they’re experiencing success and growth and, best of all, will be rolling out new, outstanding brews! All come in packages that illustrate many of the characteristics of living amidst the culture and energy of Colorado’s awe-inspiring outdoors. We decided to feature one of their new brews (Hotshot ESB) as well as an old favorite of ours (St. Bridget’s Porter). We know you won’t be disappointed by either—Cheers! And may we say best of luck to Great Divide as they roll out their sweet-looking new packaging designs and tasty new craft brews! Keep up the great work guys!

For more information about the brewery and scheduled tours, call (303) 296-9460 or check out their web site at www.greatdivide.com.

St. Bridget’s Porter

This amazing porter is named after the Irish saint who is credited with the unusual miracle of turning her bath water into beer for the lepers in her care (though we have to doubt she appeared similarly clad or looked as good in real life as she does on the bottle—but hey, that’s one of the side effects of beer now isn’t it?). It took the Gold Medal at the World Beer Cup in 1996 and the Silver Medal at the World Beer Championships in the same year, and was named best porter by Westward Magazine in 1995, 1996 and 1997. Note a roasted malt aroma that is a bit drying in the nose, like a tiny whiff of chalk dust. The flavor is true to style, complete with chocolate and coffee notes, and is quite spicy in flavor with a hop bite and an almost cayenne pepper-like spice, balanced by a firmly rooted malt sweetness and a distinct nuttiness. A great beer for beef or game dishes, or with your favorite fruit dessert. This beer is so enjoyable—it’s like a little miracle in every bottle!

Serving Temperature: 55-62° F
Int’l Bittering Units: 28.0
Alcohol by Volume: 6.1%
Malts: Northwest 2-Row, Dark Caramel, Chocolate, Black
Hops: Northern Brewer, Hallertau

Hot Shot ESB

It seems that the folks at Great Divide are a bit guarded with their ingredient lists—we couldn’t get them to tell us what they use for hops in their ESB (Extra Special Bitter). But guess what? Whatever they’re using in there, it’s fine with us—this is a great tasting ESB. Expect a nice hoppy aroma that doesn’t come across too sharp. There’s an underlying maltiness on the nose that should be noted as well. Expect an assertive flavor due to high hop levels and carbonation, countered by a smooth, sweet, creamy presence. Flavor is hop-driven but backed by a superbly balancing malt backbone, while the finish is aggressively bitter and long lasting, with a lightly perfumed aftertaste. Match this one up with your favorite light pasta dish, medium-rare steak, or a semi-mild cheese such as the Aged Gouda we are featuring this month in our Gourmet Cheese of the Month club. Not a member? Hey listen, cheese and beer have been faithful companions for literally hundreds of years now—enhancing the flavor of one another when properly partnered. But the key is obtaining quality beer and top-notch cheese—both of which we like to think we’ve got a pretty good handle on. Check out our website for more info on our cheese clubs by visiting www.monthlyclubs.com and see why so many of our beer club members have become cheese club fans as well!

Serving Temperature: 48-55° F
Int’l Bittering Units: 30.0
Alcohol by Volume: 5.2%
Malts: Northwest 2-Row, Caramel
Hops: “Several American Varieties”

Clipper City Brewing Company

Hugh Sisson founded the Clipper City Brewing Company in December 1995, but in reality, the history the largest craft brewery in the Baltimore area stretches back quite a bit further. It was in the mid-1980s, while functioning as owner and founder of Sisson’s, a local restaurant and bar, that Hugh first recognized the potential for a small brewery in Baltimore. He began his quest to get a brewery started by attempting to procure a license to brew beer at his restaurant, but quickly hit a wall upon discovering the prohibitive legislation which prevented brewpubs in Maryland. Rather than moving, he, with the help of Senator George Della, Jr., successfully lobbied the Maryland General Assembly to pass legislation which would permit a brewpub in the state’s borders. In 1989, the beer Gods smiled upon this devout pair of beery crusaders and Hugh began brewing at Sisson’s, which holds the honor of being Maryland’s first brewpub.

This move aided immensely in ushering the wave of craft brewing in Baltimore, and Hugh engrossed himself in the development and market recognition of both Sisson’s brewpub and its beers, while simultaneously serving as this pioneering facility’s first Brewmaster. Not only an anti-beer legislation warrior, he is also a member of the Master Brewers Association of America, the Institute for Fermentation and Brewing Studies and sits on the Executive Committee for the Mid-Atlantic Association of Craft Brewers.

After five years of brewing excellence at Sisson’s, Hugh decided to take his craft brewing to a larger platform by starting a full-scale microbrewery. Three guesses as to who stepped in to say he couldn’t do it… that’s right, the state. It seems that “they” (a.k.a. “the man”) took issue with him owning both a brewpub and brewery. The logic behind this legal blockade? Your guess is as good as ours. Fortunately, Hugh was undaunted by the legal challenge, and did battle with the powers that be yet again, pulling out the win less than two years later.

In early 1996, Clipper City Brewing, borrowing a Baltimore sobriquet for its name, officially began brewing on the scale Hugh had envisioned. Since Baltimore earned its official town status in 1729, many a ship has served the local port, which today ranks 5th in size in the U.S.. The first small ships used in the harbor were tobacco-carrying vessels loading locally grown leaves bound for England. When they returned, they brought indentured servants and manufactured goods not readily available in the colonies. After the Revolution, Baltimore merchants developed a thriving, albeit long distance trade in grain and flower with the West Indies and South America. In order to speed the journey to these far off lands, transport was carried out in fast clipper schooners, first designed in the Chesapeake Bay that made Baltimore’s name known worldwide, earning it the nickname “the Clipper City”.

Now you know a brewer founder has local pride when they elect to use their city’s nickname as their own; for in doing so, in effect they’re saying, “this is the beer of the city.” Clipper City Brewing Company and its beers have been widely acclaimed throughout Maryland and the Mid-Atlantic states. “Best Local Beer” was the accolade bestowed by both Baltimore Magazine and City Paper, while “Top Local Pale Ale” was decreed by the folks at Barleycorn Magazine. On top of this, Clipper City was selected as one of the 14 best Mid-Atlantic breweries by author Ben Myers in his North American Encyclopedia of Beer.

For more information about the brewery or scheduled tours, call (410) 247-7822, or visit their website at www.clippercitybeer.com.

Winter Storm “Category 5” Ale

Clipper City’s Heavy Seas line represents their highest expression of the brewer’s art. Each beer is naturally bottle-conditioned, meaning that a small amount of live yeast is intentionally left in the bottle to naturally carbonate the beer. In addition, bottle conditioning adds subtle complexity and allows the beers to evolve over time, not unlike fine wine. This ale showcases pure hop power but is perfectly balanced with a rich malt character. Floral and aromatic, the hop character is enhanced by the technique of dry hopping, a traditional method of increasing aroma. Notice the mammoth frothy off-white head of this bronze, cloudy brew (due to the yeast left in the bottle). At over 55 IBUs, the nose is not out of control as some high intensity IPAs can be. It is strong yet restrained, replete with spicy aromatics, resinous pine, a raw-carrot like bite, candied apples and thick, juicy malts as well. It is creamy in body with plentiful hop spice and bite as hoppy pine resins sit on the back of the tongue. Supporting malts are just as important as the hops here, keeping them nicely in check and offering a rounded sweetness that helps to channel the hop prowess. The finish is nicely bitter and firm on the back of the tongue. A huge achievement in brewing! Great with spicy Thai cuisine.

Serving Temperature: 52-58° F
Int’l Bittering Units: 55.0+
Alcohol by Volume: 7.5%
Malts: Pale, Crystal, Karapils
Hops: Magnum, Fuggles, Cascade, Centennial, Chinook

Clipper City Gold Ale

A bronze medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival in 2000, this ale was the Official Beer of the Baltimore Bicentennial in 1997. On the nose, expect sweet malt scents to mingle wonderfully with subdued but obvious aromatic hops that reveal notes of pine and sap. Look for light caramel malts to make up the bulk of the flavor with restrained hops contributing a subtly perfumed floral flavor and a graininess that steps in just before the finish, with a slight acidity that as evocative of dark cherries as hops. The finish is gently bitter, balancing the malts nicely, and making this beer exceptionally drinkable. This beer goes down so smooth and easy, yet is still full of character. Rather approachable—if you’ve run in to trouble swaying your good friends away from the “evil allure” of the big macros that dominate restaurants and bars across the country, this would be a good one to suggest to them as a way of weaning them away from that noxious poison—and it’s one you, as a beer connoisseur, can enjoy right alongside them! Great with grilled chicken dishes, pizza, or even a hearty California Cobb salad.

Serving Temperature: 48-53° F
Int’l Bittering Units: 25.0
Alcohol by Volume: 4.5%
Malts: Pale, Wheat, Crystal
Hops: Magnum, Hersbrucker, Cascade, Centennial

Kulmbacher Brauerei—Kulmbach, Germany (Northern Bavaria, a.k.a. Franconia)

The Germans love their beer, that’s one fact you can bet on. And they have had plenty of time to develop the many varied styles of beer available in their country. Many German breweries in operation today date back to the 1600s. In fact, what is widely believed to be the oldest brewery in continuous operation is located in Germany (founded in, brace yourself, 1040 AD). It was in an area of northern Bavaria, a region still referred to today as Franconia, in a town called Kulmbach, where remnants of beer bread were found in a vessel dating back to 3000 BC. Other archaeological finds have identified brewing as an established activity in Kulmbach by the mid-14th century. For these reasons, the town of Kulmbach is often said to be the birthplace of Germany’s famous beer industry; a sort of epicenter from which the Bavarian brewing heritage radiated. And the Kulmbacher Brauerei, established 1846, makes some of the finest beers in all of Germany, as it must, in order to maintain the local reputation.

Located at the edge of the Franconian Fichtelgebirge, a mountain range in northeastern Bavaria which extends from the valley of the Red Main River eastward to the Czech border, Kulmbach is a cozy town known for its traditional villages, beautiful landscape, and of course, beer culture. The region of Franconia in which it lies contains the highest density of breweries per square mile in all of Bavaria (not to mention Germany on the whole). Beer is a way of life here, and there are various festivals in which it is celebrated. On the last weekend in July, Kulmbach holds a beer festival in the town square, but the only brews served are special brews created for the occasion, normally weighing in at a modest 5 per cent alcohol by volume. However, Franconia is especially well known for her more potent creations. Originally, these higher potency brews were designed to sustain long distance travel during export throughout Europe, relying on higher ABVs as a natural preservative. Interestingly, one of the strongest beer styles indigenous to the region was not designed, but rather discovered, in a sort of post-brewing accident.

As the story goes, a wooden barrel of bock bier, a strong, locally brewed malty beer in the 6.5-7.5% ABV range, was inadvertently left in the brewery yard in the middle of winter. Severe snow storms ensued and the barrel was forgotten, covered by snowfall until the tail end of winter. By the time it was found, the contents were mostly frozen, and the barrel had split open. The surrounding ice was chipped away, and the residual beer left behind was tasted, whereupon it was discovered to be much richer and more concentrated than the original, yet with an exceptionally clean taste. Because water freezes before alcohol, a proportion of the beer’s water content was forced out of the brew, resulting in a concentration of alcohol relative to the remaining beer volume. The “technique” was refined, and today gives us one of the beers the region is famous for: Eisbock (eis means ice in German).

Until fairly recently, this freezing-concentration method was employed by the Kulmbacher Brauerei to yield the strongest beer known to man: Kulminator, which was about 13.2% ABV. However, modern brewing techniques have developed stronger brews, such as Samuel Adams (Boston Beer Company) Utopias MMIII, which usurps Kulminator’s former title, and all others that have claimed to be the strongest beer in the world, at an astronomical 25% ABV! That’s a 50 proof beer! While no longer the world champ, Kulminator and all Kulmbacher brews are exceptionally drinkable. Which leads us to wonder, what are you waiting for, another ice-age? Pop that baby open and give her a try!

If you’d like more information about the Kulmbacher Brauerei (and you enjoy German-only websites) check out http://www.kulmbacher.de.

Kulmbacher Eisbock

Note: while this beer is subjected to very low temperatures in its creation, it should be sampled at cellar temperatures, as suggested above, if you want to experience the full range of its robust flavor profile.

It’s tough to believe, but this beer actually disappeared for a while upon the consolidation of Kulmbach’s EKU and Kulmbacher breweries in 1996. Thankfully, the new Kulmbacher realized the error of their ways and elected to bring it back. This is the original Bavarian Eisbock, as celebrated today as it was when it first rose to popularity. How popular you ask? Well, there is actually an Eisbock festival each year in Kulmbach in late March, celebrating the style. On the last Saturday of the month, at about 7 o’clock in the evening, the festivity commences with the ceremonial hacking open of an ice-encrusted wooden cask. The 10% ABV beer that is contained therein is very complex, with a deep, reddish-brown color, malty aroma and a smooth palate. The Kulmbacher Eisbock, which used to carry the subtitle “Bayrisch G’frorns” (meaning “Bavarian Frozen”), is made from five robust malts. It is essentially a bottled version of the festival brew just described. Upon pouring, you’ll find a big, coffee-colored head atop a black colored brew with garnet highlights. Faint flowery hops are detectable, with chocolate and coffee making up the bulk of the aroma, along with notes of plum, figs and nuts. We found it to be medium-bodied and exceptionally enjoyable, which is all the more impressive considering its high ABV; this is the type of beer that can easily sneak up on the drinker, so drink wisely. A great beer to enjoy with a book at bedtime, and one that will age gracefully, should you decide to let it age for another winter.

Serving Temperature: 55-60° F
Alcohol by Volume: 9.2%

The Lion Brewery—Hartlepool, England (Northeastern England)

The second beer featured this month is from another beer authority of the world—England. The beers that dominate the British ‘pubscape’ are distinguished by one characteristic—they are predominantly ales. Just to refresh the memory, all beers can be broken down in to two general categories: ales and lagers. For hundreds of years, breweries the world over specialized in ales of some sort or another, be they bitters, stouts, porters, wits, IPAs, etc. With the advent of the bottom-fermented Pilsner lager beer in the 1840s (first created in what is today known as the Czech Republic), the popularity of top-fermented ales waned as a ferocious popularity of lager beers spread rampantly. Today Pilsner beer, as a style, is the most commonly consumed beer on the planet. Its clean, crisp, often light-bodied nature makes it an apt thirst-quenching beer, and its bottom-fermenting lager yeast yield a flavor that is often less complex, and therefore more widely received upon the public palate, than ales (it should be noted however, that some “species” of lagers can in fact possess particularly robust characteristics, such as the Eisbock style featured above, a style that often surprises folks who are familiar with the general characteristics delineating ales from lagers).

In most nations of the world, it is lager beer that is king. The reverse is true in England, though it should be said that lagers have experienced a steady rise in popularity, in part kicked off by the warm summers of the 1970s. Admirably, the palate of the British beer drinker remained largely unsatisfied by the oft considered bland tastes of many a lager beer, and the ales prevailed. Incidentally, the craft brewing revolution of the U.S. shares this ale-savoring spirit, as the majority of microbreweries specialize in the brewing of a variety of ales rather than lagers.
The British brewery we are featuring this month is located along the northeastern coast of the country, in a portside town called Hartlepool, which holds the unfortunate distinction as the first British town to be bombed by the Germans in 1914 during WWI. The Lion Brewery has been established in Hartlepool for over 150 years and has been the home to the famous Cameron’s brews since 1865. Prior to 1865 it was owned by William Waldon, who purchased it in 1852 for its pure water, drawn from an artesian well. This same well supplies the modern brewery today, and has been integral to producing beer at the site since the first brewery, Nimmo’s, was established there way back in 1826. All told, we’re talking nearly 180 years of brewing at this site! The present Lion Brewery was constructed in 1892, and by 1894, Cameron’s became a limited company owning no less than 50 pubs. For the next 91 years, Cameron’s Lion Brewery roared amidst growing popularity. Sadly, in 1985, the economy of Hartlepool experienced a major decline, and the brewery changed hands between various corporate owners, ultimately ending up under the control of one of the UK’s largest brewing conglomerates (the craft brewery-swallowing beast known as Witbread—less affectionately referred to as Twitbread by some—which itself was ultimately cannibalized by the larger than life mega-conglomerate Interbrew).

In April 2002 The Lion Brewery was purchased by Castle Eden Brewery and a new company was formed—Cameron’s Brewery Limited. Castle Eden mustered the motivation for the purchase upon discovering that Witbread had plans to close and demolish the historic brewery. This prompted a move of self-sacrifice on the part of Castle Eden, as they brokered a deal to sell off one of their breweries to a housing development corporation, using the money from the sale to help fund the purchase of Hartlepool’s Cameron’s brewery, gallantly safeguarding the future of brewing at the site, and releasing the Lion Brewery from the death grip of corporate ownership. Proudly, the Lion roars again!
For more information about the Lion Brewery, check out the following web site: http://www.cameronsbrewery.com.

Strongarm

If you ever find yourself in the town of Hartlepool, you ought to visit the Cameron Brewery Heritage Centre located next door to the brewery. It offers a remarkable and educational insight into beer production, as well as a fascinating story of entrepreneurial activity, innovation, social history and political maneuvering. Interactive displays trace brewing through the ages and the rise of the present company from its origins in 1865 when John William Cameron first entered the Lion Brewery. You will also likely learn about the story of the Hartlepool monkey, a popular local story spawned during the Napoleonic wars, during which time there was a fear of a French invasion of Britain and much public concern about the possibility of French infiltrators and spies. The fishermen of Hartlepool, fearing an invasion, kept close watch on a French vessel in their waters as it struggled against a storm. When the vessel was severely battered and sunk, they turned their attention to the wreckage that washed ashore. Among the wreckage lay a lone survivor, the ship’s pet monkey, dressed to amuse the ship’s crew in a military-style uniform. The fishermen apparently ‘apprehended’ and questioned the monkey and held a beach-based trial. Unfamiliar with what a Frenchman looked like, they came to the conclusion that this monkey was a French spy and should be sentenced to death. The unfortunate creature was to die by hanging in a public execution. And you thought the Americans had a disdain for the French!

OK, enough with the Monkey talk… The Lion Brewery’s famous Strongarm brand was established in 1955 to meet the growing demands for a stronger draught beer. Popularity would soon be established as word spread of its easy-drinking complexity. This classic northern English ale is characterized by complex layers of malt and subtle balancing hops. We found it to be a well-rounded, ruby red ale with a distinctive, tight creamy head. Loaded with flavorful nuances, look for notes of pear, apple, toffee and caramelized sugar. Strongarm was recently awarded a gold medal, with a score of 92 points, in the English brown ales category at the World Beer Championships, sponsored by Chicago’s Beverage Testing Institute. Enjoy with stuffing, pork with brown sauce, or a slice of apple pie.

Serving Temperature: 50-55° F
Alcohol by Volume: 4.5%

ASK MURL

Hey Murl,

I’ve heard that many beer drinkers in Europe and elsewhere drink warm beer? Is there any truth to this? And hey, I’ve also noticed that the club newsletter tends to list serving temperatures that seem to be a bit higher than I’d expect? Isn’t beer supposed to be served ice-cold, in a frosty mug?

Shirley Green
Medicine Bow, WY

Yo Shirl,

Wassup girl? OK, glad to hear that you are keeping your ears and eyes open to beer drinking topics. The issue of temperature and beer drinking has spawned debate after debate. No, you don’t walk in to a pub in Ireland and get a microwaved Guinness that comes to you warm and toasty, but many visitors who are accustomed to getting their beer served to them in a frosty mug in the states who get a beer overseas that is just below room temp, or has been only slightly chilled, will consider the beer warm. Then they’ll come home and declare, “Hey—Europeans drink their beer warm—no kidding, I was there.” Now in truth, there are a few beer styles that should not only be served warm, but quite hot, as in 158°F, like certain Belgian spiced cherry beers. But these are rare. The major beers that dominate the American market must be consumed at very cold temperatures, because they are produced with adjuncts such as corn and rice, which do not taste so nice unless quite cold (I’m reminded of a quote from the movie Blue Velvet in which Dennis Hopper declares, “that beer’s going to get warm. One thing I can’t *censored* stand is warm beer, it makes me *censored* puke.”). But well-made, craft brews are created with higher relative amounts authentic beer ingredients that tend to offer their full depth of flavor at temperatures in the 48-55°F range. Now, the ideal serving temperature varies with styles, and even within a style, but in general, the more complex the beer, the warmer it may be served. For example, pilsners should be fairly cold, about 48°F, but a robust imperial stout should be savored at about 55-64°F. Don’t worry; when we suggest our temperatures, it’s based on years of beer tasting experience. Still, everyone’s tastes are different, so if you don’t like the temp we’ve suggested, feel free to adjust to your liking. We just make the effort to suggest temperatures that will yield the most flavorsome beer drinking experience, from some of the most flavorsome beers in the country.

Woof!
Murl

Norm’s Corner

Woody: Hey, Mr. Peterson, there’s a cold one waiting for you.
Norm: I know, and if she calls, I’m not here.

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