Past Newsletters
October 2008
Brewery |
Beers Featured |
| Matt Brewery | Saranac Pumpkin Ale |
| Atlanta Brewing Company | Peachtree Pale Ale |
| Matt Brewery | Saranac Octoberfest |
| Atlanta Brewing Company | Red Brick Ale |
| Brasserie des Géants (Belgium) | Saison Voisin |
| Brasserie des Géants (Belgium) | Goliath |
Matt Brewing Company
The Matt Brewing Company is not only a brewery but an institution. This is one of the most industry-respected, accomplished, award-winning breweries in the country, with a heritage dating back to the 19th century—exceedingly rare in the world of U.S. craft-brewed beer. Francis Xavier Matt arrived in the states in 1878 (only 13 years after the end of the American Civil War, and just shortly after the nation's 100th birthday). The man put in several years of work gaining brewing experience at the already established Bierbaur Brewery. Originally from the Black Forest region of Germany, "F.X.," as he liked to be called, settled in the sparsely populated Adirondacks of New York, where he founded what is today one of the oldest breweries in the United States (and the oldest in New York state).
Today, the surname of this family-based brewing operation honors their commitment to tradition and pride. The Matt Brewing Company has survived numerous world-altering events, including two World Wars and Prohibition. After the days of Prohibition had passed, F.X., then 74, was joined by his sons Walter and Frank, and a tradition of family brewing ensued. Under the leadership of the third and fourth generations of the Matt Family (Nick and Fred, respectively), the Brewery has earned a reputation as one of the most respected specialty brewers in the country, producing a wide range of distinctive, flavorful beers. Though not earth-shattering from a global perspective (like other dramas they've endured) in late May of this year the brewery's packaging area was struck by a devastating fire that resulted in many millions of dollars' worth of damage to their historic brewery site.
Thankfully, they've been able to land on their feet and are now getting back to business as usual. Not to minimize the impact of this event, but in the context of two World Wars, the Great Depression, and, worst of all, Prohibition, we're not surprised they've been able to keep it together and maintain their business. After all, it's been more than one hundred and twenty years since F.X. created the first of his brewery's malty treasures and established the legacy that is the Matt brewing tradition. As their label states, they're technically now in their "3rd century of brewing." Today, each of their brews is a flavorful testament to time-tested recipes and literally generations of experience.
For more information about the brewery and scheduled tours, give them a call at 800-765-6288 or check out their web site at www.saranac.com.
It's that time again… the pumpkin beers have grown up and are ready to be picked from the patch. Saranac Pumpkin Ale has got a pretty big nose, though it's not really of pumpkin, which is what many initiates to this style expect, for obvious reasons. In our view, few pumpkin beers really get anywhere near what pumpkin tastes like (and for good reason). They should probably be called "pumpkin pie beers" if we're to have a more realistic indication of aroma and flavor. What really sets this version of the style apart from others is the deep-seated mustiness and yeast character as well as fresh wort (pre-fermented "beer") and grains amongst the various spicy qualities. Speaking of which, there's cinnamon, cloves, and allspice all atop a faintly acrid roasted character. Be prepared, this sucker doesn't hold back on the spices—they are BIG in this beer, and the aroma really blossoms into a full roar of spicy characters, with vanilla and a slight woody character coming through as it warms. Notice how it takes a second after the sip goes down for that rush and zing to kick in, and how it is later rounded out by a nice beery base of clean malts and grains. Finishes relatively clean considering the zesty burst that kicks things off. Hops are nowhere to be detected, really—only a bitter balance is executed, but flavors are difficult to get at amidst the wash of spice notes. We thought about pairing this with cinnamon toast. Problem with that can be that this style of beer becomes bland by comparison to the real thing (cinnamon)… So, a more conservative approach would be to serve with fresh pumpkin-stuffed tortellini served in a sage and butter-walnut sauce. The brewery recommends serving with fowl and game birds. We'd go bacon-wrapped quail or pheasant. Would it be wrong to hand these out to trick-or-treaters? (To give to their parents, of course.)
Serving Temperature: 42-45° F
Int'l Bittering Units: 15.0
Alcohol by Volume: 5.4%
Suggested Glassware: Pint Glass or mini Jack-o-Lantern
Malts: Maris Otter, Wheat
Hops: Cascade
Pumpkins and Octoberfest… Tis the season! Expect a sweet toasty nose with suggestions of bread dough. There are some fruity, sweet (think candied apple) and hoppy notes that jump out and push the style barrier just a bit. Coupled with the herbal, hoppy, zesty notes and toasty character in aroma (and flavor), this beer rides the line between being your traditional Octoberfest (a style of beer called Marzen) and a Vienna Lager—but to hell with style guidelines; this beer is too tasty to get hung up on that! We found it went down uncharacteristically spicy for a Marzen and then faded to a very toasty, almost Saltines-like cracker note with a proper amount of alcohol bite for the style. Look for some spitzy lemon notes in the finish. Brewery recommends partnering with hearty stew, but it works well thrown at some brats or knockwurst and sauerkraut. Prost!
Serving Temperature: 45-50° F
Int'l Bittering Units: 20
Alcohol by Volume: 5.4%
Suggested Glassware: Stein, Mug (clear) or Pint Glass
Malts: German Pilsner, Crystal
Hops: Saaz, Tettnang
Atlanta Brewing Company
We've been fans of this brewery for a while, but this is the first time we've featured them. The Atlanta Brewing Company (ABC) is the oldest operational craft brewery in the state of Georgia. Like numerous areas of the south, restrictive prohibition-era "hangover" laws have meant slow momentum for the craft brew scene. The fact that this is the oldest of the state's craft breweries, and was founded in 1993, kind of gives you an idea of not only what type of pace the beer scene has been developing at, but, really, how far ahead of the curve ABC was when they decided to set up shop. In late 2005, new ownership and management joined longtime ABC brewmaster Dave McClure. Robert Budd, President, and Dave Weil, Director of Operations, have been hard at work with Dave in building their brands and getting more people turned on to good beer than you can shake a Georgia peach at (yes, we do reserve the right to create our own ridiculous expressions over here in the newsletter department) .
Their Red Brick Ale was the first beer they brewed and it remains their flagship brand. This month we're featuring this beer and their Peachtree Pale Ale, but the brewery also serves up a traditional, German-style Hefeweizen in the summertime, a hearty double-chocolate Oatmeal Porter in the winter, and an American-style Blonde Ale (aka Golden Ale) all year round. Then there are their limited release beers like their Red Brick Barrel Select, a beer that recently took home the Gold Medal from the World Beer Cup in the Wood and Barrel Aged Beer category. This is their Red Brick Ale aged in Jim Beam Bourbon barrels for 10 months. Now that's some southern comfort if we've ever heard it.
In 2006, the Atlanta Brewing Company was named one of "10 great places to see what's brewing in beer" by USA Today. We agree—especially amidst the awakening of craft-brewed beer's collective consciousness that's currently happening in the south. Turns out ABC also has a great guided tour and beer tasting every Wednesday and Friday from 6 to 8 p.m. Four to six beers are offered on tap, and a brand-spankin' new tasting room with all the creature comforts one needs for such an affair is currently in the works. Pay 'em a visit and say "Hi" for us.
For more information about the brewery and scheduled tours, call (404) 355-5558 or check out their web site at www.atlantabrewing.com.
Winner of the 2008 Gold in the American Pale Ale category at The Hickory Hops Festival and Carolina Championship of Beer, this pale ale pours an attractive golden, brass color with a "permanent" off-white head and good lace stickage. Expect the nose to present grains, grapefruit seeds, a sprig of fresh mint, aspirin, caramel, a gentle hoppy spiciness, and an overall citrusy hop tone. Note that this beer goes down relatively bitter, but this is nicely balanced by a solid caramel malt backbone. In fact, the balance in this brew is excellent. Look for the flavor to strike with bitter notes first, then later sweeter tones as malts surge to establish equilibrium and balance. You'll then experience a resurgence of tight bitterness in the back of the throat and rear of tongue, with a relative sharpness to the bitterness, and a slightly medicinal, prickly hop spiciness. All in all, a very nicely balanced, easy-to-drink pale ale. Pair with good company and another beer.
Serving Temperature: 40-45° F
Int'l Bittering Units: 43
Alcohol by Volume: 5.5%
Suggested Glassware: Pint Glass
Malts: 2-Row, Crystal, Victory, Munich
Hops: Zeus (for bittering), Zeus & Cascade (for flavor & aroma)
ABC's flagship beer earned a Gold Medal at the 1998 World Beer Cup—right on! Keep in mind, brown ales, as a beer style, boast a wide range in color, aroma and flavor. In ABC's version, expect a roasted chestnut aroma and some lightly charred sugar. Overall, the nose is malty, and, while tame, there's quite a lot going on. Look for notes of molasses as it warms, and even a note akin to a lukewarm café latte. The flavor profile presents notes of toasted pumpernickel, figs, overly ripened oranges dipped in vodka, and a touch of milk chocolate. We found it had far more citrusy hops than implied by the nose. Finishes moderately bitter with nutty, sweet, citrus notes and a slightly acidic edge at the extreme end. Try this one with an almond and parmesan cheese-covered salad, topped with balsamic vinegar and dark-bread croutons.
Serving Temperature: 45-53° F
Int'l Bittering Units: 22
Alcohol by Volume: 6.2%
Suggested Glassware: Pint Glass
Malts: 2-Row, Crystal, Chocolate, Victory, Wheat, Munich
Hops: Zeus (for bittering), Fuggles (for flavor & aroma)
Brasserie des Géants (Giants' Brewery)—Irchonwelz (Ath), Belgium (Southwestern Belgium)
The area of Ath, in Wallonia, is home to more than just great beer; this is the land of the Giants! Since the middle ages, Ath has been known for its annual Parade of Giants in which Goliath, locally known as "Gouyasse," leads brass bands and fellow colossal-sized kinsmen through the streets, towering above carnival floats and groups of more ordinary-sized citizens in customary costumes. No surprise then that the local brewery (in Irchonwelz) is named Brasserie des Géants (a.k.a. the Giants' Brewery).
Not only do they craft big beers that live up to their name, their homestead is rather sizable as well. Incorporated into the remarkably well-preserved remains of the thirteenth century Castle d'Irchonwelz, the site somehow manages to unite quaint charm and indomitable fortitude. And, as they're quick to point out on brewery tours (yes, they are open for tours—a must if you are ever in the area), their entry gate is hung high enough to permit the occasional giants who may wish to stop in for a quick pint—er, keg—of beer.
Interestingly, there's sort of a paradox at play here. The name Irchonwelz comes from the word for hedgehog (urchon), a rather small creature, and the local inhabitants are affectionately referred to as "urchons." Perhaps to a hedgehog, any visitor could be considered a giant—could this be where the giants of local lore come from? No idea really, but it's sort of a fun notion to consider. If anyone has ever been there, or plans a trip, please ask this question and get back to us! OK, we've spun enough of our own mythology here; back to the brewery…
Founded in 2000 by a couple of young urchons, Pierre Delcoigne and Vinciane Wergifosse, The Giants' Brewery was built and is run by the pair. Pierre, a graduate of the famed Brewing Engineering program of the Louvain School of Brewing, has been brewing strong for years now. In 1997, he and Vinciane acquired the Castle d'Irchonwelz in order to develop their ambitions of creating the Giants' Brewery. After two full years of construction and set up, the brewery opened. Their first brew, known as "Gouyasse" (Goliath in the local dialect), went on sale in August 2000 (perfect timing, as the annual festival of Giants is held during the fourth weekend of August), and all their brews are fit for giant thirsts—and Giants—alike. But don't let the name fool you; despite their Herculean title, these folks produce small batches of beer. Their brews are never short on flavor, and some could definitely be considered "big beers," but all are created in small batches and released in limited quantities. In fact, in the world of European brewing conglomerates, these folks are far more akin to David than Goliath. We wonder how they feel about the little man taking down a giant, given their appreciation of Giants and all… But we're sure they feel connected to both characters in that story—the little guy in the big world of brewing giants, and the colossus of brewing prowess. Like the brewery and these dichotomous elements, their beers have complexity that's worth mulling over—so no more digressions from us Lilliputians—get to it!
For more information about the brewery, check out their web site: http://www.brasseriedesgeants.com.
Saison, as you may already know, is a style of beer developed by farmers in the Franco-Belgian countryside. Ultimately, the French versions evolved into their own style called Bière de Garde. Not to discredit the differences between these styles, but they are often considered similar due to their "farmhouse" character (literally, an almost hay-like and "horsey" aroma and flavor notes) and, hence, people are frequently confused as to the difference. Basically, Bière de Garde tends to be sweeter, more rounded in flavor, more heavily malt-focused, with the key distinction's being that it is less spicy than Saison, which tends to have a peppery, spicy character and relatively dry finish. Before modern refrigeration, Saison was brewed near the end of winter to be consumed during hard-labored Spring and Summer months. Such a beer had to be sturdy enough to last for months in warmer temperatures, but not too strong to be quenching and refreshing in the summer. Saison Voisin is a marvelous example of the style—we almost wish it were more widely available so more people could try it—but then again, membership in our club has its privileges. This beer would not have been available at all had the founders of the Giants' Brewery not purchased the recipes of the beers formerly brewed by the Voisin Brewery before going into business as their own brewery. The Voisin Brewery has roots as far back as 1877. The last owner was Léon Voisin, who took over the brewery in 1963 and ran it until its closure in 1989. Giants' Brewery actually brewed their Saison Voisin under the guidance of Léon Voisin—now that's a good neighbor for ya ("voisin" actually translates to "neighbor" in French—quelle coïncidence?) So, this beer has some history and plenty of tradition to it, and we're glad to know it didn't become another beer lost to time. Expect a peachy color and a white, sticky head and lace. On the nose, look for spice notes (think pepper, cinnamon, and an undercurrent of restrained clove), ample caramel, tropical fruits, wheat, suggestions of Bananas Foster, and a robust mustiness-meets-barn-like-hay-and-horse character. Upon tasting, expect a very dry, crisp feel to hit the palate, followed by a surge of sweeter maltiness, and flavors that mirror the nose with additional citrus tones and some lemony, earthy, noble hop qualities. Finishes just about bone dry and a touch spritzy, which accentuates the lingering spice impression (expect this to linger for a while). This dry, spicy finish helps the drinkability as it begs you to take another sip. We suggest pairing with an earthy Fontina or Camembert cheese (either will bring out a nutty character in the beer), Spicy Indian Samosas, or Larb (Laotian meat salad).
Serving Temperature: 40-45°F (or 70+°F if you want to go old-school farmhand style)
Alcohol by Volume: 5.0%
Suggested Glassware: Tulip
Interestingly, this bulky brew began as a much smaller stature creation. Gouyasse, as this beer was first known in Belgium, was brewed at a respectable 6% ABV. However, the US distributors felt that a 6% beer carrying the name Goliath was a bit oxymoronic, especially with the surge of big-bodied, bold-flavored beers that have made waves in the states since the late 90s. So they suggested that brewmaster Pierre Delcoigne come up with a stronger, more intimidating beer better suited to carry the name of the mythical giant. The result was the beer you now have before you, and it's become quite a hit for the brewery since its reformulation. They still make the original Gouyasse, but "Goliath Tripel," as the beer we've sent you is known in Belgium, has become their biggest local seller. Made without the addition of sugar, this is the only Tripel in Belgium that is made using only malt as a sugar source for our yeasty friends. This means the beer will start out a bit sweeter when young, but, over time in the bottle, the flavors become more dry and the hops counter-balance the sweetness more firmly. We've been told that six months in the bottle appears to be where this beer really shines; but, of course, this is one of those beers that is good for at least two to three years of laying down if kept at cellar temperatures. We encourage you to set aside a bottle or two and check in on this sleeping Gulliver about once a year. Look for notes of honey on the nose, with apple, vanilla, pear, oranges, and pepper also appearing. Expect some zesty hops which contribute notes of wildflowers (akin to lavender), that characteristic Belgian yeastiness, and a subtle tartness. The flavor contains much of the above notes, but with a slight spice and peppery quality. Adding the yeast during the pour lends a mango-like character to this brew. Expect a fairly dry finish (considering the original sweetness), with orange peel and Saaz hop bitterness rounding out peppery hop notes. A big beer befitting of the Brobdingnagian name it carries. Pair with a sharp blue cheese like Colston Basset or Roaring 40s Blue (both of which we have featured in our Gourmet Cheese of the month club—want some? Consider a membership. Visit www.monthlyclubs.com for more info).
Serving Temperature: 48-55°F
Alcohol by Volume: 9.0%
Suggested Glassware: Snifter or Goblet
