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Craft Beer Blog from The Beer of the Month Club

A craft beer blog written by the experts of The Microbrewed Beer of the Month Club

Beyond the Bottle: Hallertau Blanc Hops

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The Hallertau Blanc hop, prominently employed in this month’s featured To Øl Chateau Øl, is a relatively new option for brewers, first commercially released in 2012. A daughter of the Cascade hop, Hallertau Blanc was created by the Hop Research Center Hüll in the Hallertau region of Bavaria, Germany. It was specifically made in response to the growth in America’s craft beer industry, and BSG Hops suggests using them as one might southern-hemisphere hops: in styles like wheat beers, beers with Brettanomyces, Belgian-style ales, and a mélange of IPA and similar. The hops are considered to be on the tropical side of things, with notes of pineapple, passion fruit, fresh lemongrass, gooseberry, and grapefruit.

Almanac Beer Co. has used Hallertau Blanc hops in a wide variety of releases over the years, including in their White Label (paired with California-grown Muscat Blanc grapes, for good measure), various “de Brettaville” releases, and their Flavor Wheel series. Hallertau Blanc is one of the key hops in BrewDog’s Hazy Jane (of the more readily available options), while Stillwater Extra Dry is dry-hopped with Hallertau Blanc, Citra, and Sterling hops. Mikkeller, Grimm, The Kernel, Modern Times, Other Half, and a bunch of other breweries have been experimenting with Hallertau Blanc across a mélange of styles… so keep an eye out. Have a local option with Hallertau Blanc you’re digging? Chime in on Twitter via @RareBeerClub.

Beyond the Bottle: The Last Day of Christmas

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The Rare Beer Club has long been a supporter of The Bruery’s 12 Days of Christmas series, offering each release to RBC members dating as far back as 2009 with Two Turtle Doves, a Belgian-style dark ale brewed with cocoa nibs and toasted pecans. I’ve been working as the club’s newsletter writer for the latter half of the run—from 7 Swans-A-Swimming in 2014 to the present—and each release has combined the concept of Belgian brewers doing stronger, occasionally spiced dark beers for the holiday season with the annually rotating prompt from that 12 Days of Christmas song. 2 Turtle Doves riffed on ‘turtle’ candy. 3 French Hens used French oak barrels. 5 Golden Rings went a bit out-there—11.5% golden ale, with spices and pineapple. 8 Maids-a-Milking was an imperial milk stout… but fermented with Belgian yeast.

This year’s release of 12 Drummers Drumming marks the final release of the series, after 11 years of annual Belgian-style holiday beers, starting with Partridge in a Pear Tree. It’s worth taking just a moment to consider the series in context: it’s one of the first major (let’s call it) higher-concept series of annual one-off releases riffing on a core theme I can recall in craft beer, following in the SoCal footsteps of stuff like Stone’s Vertical Epic Series (02.02.02 to 12.12.12). Both are impressively ambitious projects, each taking over a decade to complete, and it’s especially neat that The Bruery’s started theirs in 2008—the same year they opened.

So, what other large-scale brewery release series am I totally overlooking? (The Lost Abbey’s Ultimate Boxed Set from 2012 comes to mind, though those 12 one-off beers were released monthly…) Also: have you been cellaring any of the 12 Days of Christmas series to pop with this year’s final release? Let us know on Twitter via @RareBeerClub.

Beyond the Bottle: Why Hard Seltzer? Why Not?

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Alright, one last swing at this trend before The Summer of Seltzer comes to its close. Shout out to the folks at the San Francisco Chronicle for recently doing the unenviable task of blind-tasting through 38 different varieties of hard seltzer in the name of science. Key finding: “In our professional opinion, there are some not terrible hard seltzers, but there are no actually good hard seltzers.” That was pretty much my take after tasting through a couple dozen of them a few years back for work—and neither result’s surprising. This has nothing to do with taste.

It’s interesting to look at the responses to this coverage on the Chronicle’s Insta page, which basically boils down to competing values: “Why don’t you have tastebuds?” vs. “Why don’t you like fun?” I don’t have enough room to turn this into a sociology deep-dive (which also doesn’t sound super fun), but I think it’s interesting to think about where one fits into these annual summer drinking trends that all fade pretty fast: hard root beer, frosé, aperol spritz…

For people excited by these Instagrammable trends (not me), it’s partly about knowing about this new thing, about being up on a certain part of culture—and it’s frankly not very different from riding the hazy-IPA train (def me), or pastry-stout blimp, or whatever’s next in beer. It feels tribal, because it totally is. And I think it’s particularly interesting to consider how these various competing values (flavor vs. how a beverage looks and feels, for example) figure into how the craft beer world’s shaping up. I might even get around to sampling that black cherry White Claw this weekend (per recommendations…). I just can’t imagine making a habit of it.

Beyond the Bottle: The Seltzer Monster

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Hard seltzer has been making a lot of noise this summer… This segment of bubbly alcoholic water has seen a 193% increase year-over-year in a recent Nielsen survey, and some industry analysts predict it’ll reach a $1-billion industry by the end of the year. U.S. Today (admittedly not the most immediate barometer for cutting-edge beverage trends…) named it “the boozy beverage of summer 2019.” Your mileage may vary… But White Claw memes abound, and I have spent a nontrivial part of my week sketching out seltzer monsters for Massive Potions.

It’s well outside the core Rare Beer Club wheelhouse—but it’s been kinda hard to ignore.

I did a roundup of hard seltzer for my column at All About Beer Magazine a few years back, to the degree that I’m pretty good with never having to drink another one. But I’ll presume that the segment has improved at least a little bit from those earliest days, and I’m curious to hear from Rare Beer Club members who’ve ventured to hard-seltzer land. Have you actually tried anything interesting in this space? Or is it all nostalgic sugar water, masquerading as a health-conscious option to pull in the light-beer crowd? Chime in on Twitter via @RareBeerClub.

Beyond the Bottle: The Summer of Hoppy Sours

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It’s harder to pinpoint beer trends these days, when anything not bolted down gets tossed in the fermenter. But the coalescence of kettle sours and hazy IPAs certainly have this summer looking like a peak moment for hoppy sours. I’ll limit my disparagement of kettle sours (got that out of my system last month!) and head right on into the folks that are doing combos of hoppy and tartness well. If you’re digging that August Schell Basin of Attraction—go forth.

New Belgium’s Le Terroir is one of the old-school examples that sent a lot of us down this road. It’s a dry-hopped sour ale that sees long-term aging in oak foeders, before getting dry-hopped with Amarillo and Strata, and I still remember tracking this one down in Boulder a decade back: tropical, grassy, beautifully handled throughout. Almanac Beer Co. out here in NorCal has done a bunch of “Hoppy Sour” releases, with recent takes including Strawberry Hopcake (featuring a mélange of fruits, plus Sabro, Citra and Cashmere hops) and Tropical Galaxy (a Brett-focused foeder beer with a hefty dry-hop of Galaxy). Cantillon’s Cuvee des Champions and Iris are dry-hopped classics—if you can find them. And Crooked Stave, De Garde, and Prairie have also each released a variety of hoppy + sour options as of late.

Got a hoppy-sour beer you’ve been digging? Chime in on Twitter via @RareBeerClub.

Beyond the Bottle: The Lambic Life for Me

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Over the past five years or so, give or take, kettle sours have served to shift how people think about “sour beers.” Ten years ago, sour beer would more likely have been a mixed-fermentation example: a Belgian lambic, maybe, or a non-Belgian riff on lambic, probably aged in oak, probably for months or years. The yeast and bacteria involved in these complex fermentations take their sweet time. But with the rise of quick- or kettle-souring techniques, in which a firm presence of lactic acid is created basically overnight (by various means, only some of which involve yogurt), brewers can churn out lemony-tart “sour beers” super fast.

Except… they usually aren’t like the beers that made this space interesting in the first place.

If you dig kettle sours: that’s great. As the beer world expands, there’s a beer for everyone at this point—and that part’s cool as hell. But it also means there is more stuff that’s gonna be well outside of one’s wheelhouse. I love hazies, and loathe milkshake IPAs. I was grateful to see the doubly-coarse abomination that was black IPA meet an early end. And I honestly do not get the ongoing presence of one-note kettle sours—which felt like a bad idea years ago.

Once I remove the kids from my lawn, and once that massive cartooning windfall comes in (still waiting), I plan to fill the garage with lambic. The upside of kettle sours, for me and my wife, and frankly the majority of our peeps out here, is we can now magically find lambic on the shelves of California (albeit at sub-magical prices). Some of my favorite beer experiences have been from sour beers that take years to develop and benefit from careful blending skills that aren’t on the back of a yogurt container. I hope kettle sours continue to improve; there are definitely some Berliner-esque weisses and pseudo-goses that come across well. But, for now, I want nothing to do with that 9% sour IPA with pluot puree. The lambic life for me.

Beyond the Bottle: Dry, Bitter, Belgian

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In chatting with Garden Path’s Ron Extract about this month’s featured The Garden Paths Led to Flowered, he mentioned XX Bitter from Belgium’s Brouwerij De Ranke as being a point of inspiration for it. If you haven’t yet crossed paths with XX Bitter, it’s more bitter and expressive in its show of herbaceous, grassy hops than one would expect from a 6% blonde. And it’s also basically the perfect sort of beer for repeated pints: layered, not numbingly bitter, crisp with depth.

It was a bit easier to get hold of fresh XX Bitter and the similarly poised Taras Boulba (from Brasserie de La Senne) back when living in DC, as the fresh import options are a bit patchier these days in California. Our tasting crew in DC sought out these beers and any adjacent kin: Orval, De La Senne’s Zinnebir, Thiriez Extra (from France), Jolly Pumpkin’s Bam Biere… In basic terms: potent hops, but more traditionally noble/herbal/floral—plus supportive yeast.

Hoppy Belgian blonde… Belgian pale ale/IPA… Buncha overlapping terms for this general space. The Rare Beer Club has previously highlighted De Ranke’s XXX Bitter, an amped-up version of XX Bitter with 50% more hops. Up here in Sonoma County, some of the closer alternatives are session options like Redemption or, with a more neutral yeast, Aud Blond from Russian River—but still not quite that hop density + yeast combo of something like XX Bitter.

Have a dry, bitter, Belgian-inclined beer you’re digging? Chime in on Twitter via @rarebeerclub.

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