War Horse Brewing Company - It Came From Seneca Lake

So, what makes a quadruple IPA? In the brewing world, the terms double, triple, and quadruple (or even quintuple) IPA are not officially defined, and there is overlap among how different brewers use the terms. But, as we go up in number, it signals an ever-increasing amount of malt which leads to higher original gravities and, thus, higher ABVs, as well as higher and higher hopping rates. For a quad IPA, we’re typically going to be looking at an ABV in excess of 10% and a hopping rate as much as 10 lbs per barrel – or even more. This is an expensive style to brew, and quite difficult to do right.

For other quadruple IPAs built in the more traditional vein, we can get a huge caramel malt backbone and stratospheric IBUs – a bit like if a double IPA mated with a barleywine. However, War Horse has taken a different approach with their monster-themed It Came From Seneca Lake. They’ve built this as a hugely amped up New England-style Hazy IPA, and we’re digging the result.

On the pour, we’re greeted with a super hazy golden brew topped with a massive fluffy off-white head that displays remarkable retention before dropping to a persistent collar, aided by the nucleation etching of our Duvel tulip. On the nose, this brew is one of those very aromatic IPAs that offers something new with each sniff. Citrus is certainly apparent here – both the sweet juice and the sharper zest – in the guise of orange, tangerine, and grapefruit. Softer tropical and stone fruit notes pull us in further, joined by vinous hints of Sauvignon Blanc, touches of pine resin, and fresh honeydew. Crafted with five different very expressive hops – Citra, Hallertau Blanc, Mosaic, Simcoe, and Sabro – it’s got a bit of everything, and it all comes though just super plush and inviting.

As we take a sip, the first thing we notice is how very pillowy, creamy, and full-bodied this is thanks to what was clearly a huge dose of oats and unmalted wheat to contribute lots of suspended proteins for big haze and big mouthfeel. Unlike a traditional imperial IPA with loads of caramelization, the malty backbone here – while being equally full – instead offers a light toasty quality in addition to wheaty tanginess. The alcohol is well-hidden when the beer is colder, increasing in booziness with warmth and certainly teaming up with the hops to offer plenty of edgier notes to stand in contrast to the pillowy malts, whose light sweetness also rises with warmth, in kind.

Naturally, though, it’s the hops which are the stars of our show, and they are quite luscious and vibrant. Big fruity esters and hop flavors combine for a bold cocktail of citruses, tropical fruits, and stone fruits, decorated with a slightly evergreen or minty hint. At just 45 IBUs, we don’t get palate-crushing bitterness – this is decisively New England-style in its construction, but there’s still plenty of resinous hop bite coming through in concert with some fruity and spicy booziness to offer balance to the residual malt sweetness. But, while this is beautifully balanced, do not mistake that term for shy in any way. At all. This is a huge hazy IPA: massively round, packed full of juicy fruit, and noticeably boozy in just the right way – maintaining a dance with the beer’s sweeter elements all the way through the experience.

Look, let’s just be honest: most things that come out of a lake are best when they’re fresh, and this creature is no exception. Hops degrade over time, so enjoy this monster fresh. Now, if you do decide to hang on to this for a while, it’s not likely to immediately and suddenly fall off a flavor cliff. Rather, we’d expect the malty qualities to gradually grow in perceived strength while the luscious, fruity hop elements fade over time. Maybe you’re into that sort of thing, but we’re not – we’re going to drink ours now!

For food pairings, make sure to choose something bold enough to stand up to the beer. We’d look to spicy dishes with a citrus or tropical element like Jamaican pineapple jerk pork or grilled shrimp with an orange-chile glaze. Additionally, the beer’s hops and elevated ABV can cut through fattier and saltier fare like pork belly, ham, or duck. Enjoy!

Founded in 2008 under the original name Barley Yards, War Horse Brewing Company has since evolved into a standout craft beer destination in the heart of New York’s Finger Lakes region. Located at the expansive Three Brothers Wineries & Estates in Geneva, the brewery is the creation of the estate’s owners, Dave and Luanne Mansfield, who came into possession of the 40-acre property in 2006. They took an unusual approach right away, building three wine brands and three tasting rooms on the estate, each reflecting the individual personalities of Dave and his brothers.

Initially, they brewed their beers under contract in Rochester, but the dream was always to build an on-site brewery… someday. When their winemaker, Justin Paolicelli, started producing small-batch cider on-site – and rapidly selling out of it – they knew it was time to take the plunge and develop a proper on-site brewhouse for both their cider and beer production. The dream became a reality in 2016 with the opening of a full-fledged 15-barrel brewhouse at the estate.

At the same time, the team expanded the adjoining tasting room which, like the War Horse brand name, evokes a military theme honoring veterans – inspired by Luanne’s dad, a WWII Navy vet. But, War Horse’s commitment to honoring veterans goes beyond just nostalgia. Through their “Pint It Forward” program, guests can pre-pay for pints to be enjoyed by veterans or active-duty military, and proceeds from their flagship IPA go toward the Infinite Hero Foundation.

In 2017, War Horse made big waves at the inaugural New York Craft Beer Competition, capturing three medals (the most of any of the 143 breweries in the competition) including Gold for Lieutenant Dan (in the pale ale category), Silver for The Big Broadcast (DIPA), and Bronze for Tarty McFly (sour/wild ale). The brewery no doubt owes much of their success to their former brewmaster, Tony Cordova, previously of Brewery Ommegang and Ithaca Beer Company, who came onboard to help reimagine War Horse’s recipes and production techniques at the launch of the on-site estate brewery.

The brewery presently produces several year-round, seasonal, and limited offerings bearing lighthearted names like Grand Theft Guava, Breakfast With Churchill, and Royal Kilt Inspector. One of their most distinctive beers, Peace Bomber, is a wheat ale brewed with Riesling juice, resulting in a crisp, fruit-accented hybrid that nods to the estate’s winery roots. In addition to beer, the brewery produces hard ciders made with New York apples under their Bombshell brand, and the Iron Heart range of craft sodas for non-drinkers and designated drivers.

With a picturesque location near the shore of Seneca Lake, a creative approach to brewing, and a mission that reaches beyond the glass, War Horse stands as a compelling stop on the Finger Lakes beverage trail, if you’re in the area. This month we’re excited to introduce War Horse to our members with their very limited Quadruple IPA, It Came From Seneca Lake – brewed just once per year, with 2025’s batch available only at the tasting room, at select stores in Upstate NY, and via the Rare Beer Club. For more info about the brewery and their estate winery, visit them at www.3brotherswinery.com.